Reading forums about Gudauri, we were worried that there was no snow at the resort. We thought of postponing our vacation, but it was not possible to do it promptly. People complained about stones on the slope and lack of water in the hotels. All the resort’s water was used for snowing the slopes, but it was in vain. There was still a catastrophic lack of snow.
We arrived at Tbilisi airport on January 2 at 03:00. We booked a car in advance at Tbilisi airport for 150 dollars for 6 days. We immediately drove towards Gudauri. We were 15 km away from our destination and there were no traces of snow. We saw snow only when we entered the area at 07:00, which was illuminated by signs with skiers on the light poles. We expected the worst, but in fact everything looked quite good. The car was on winter tires, but they were Velcro (no studs). The road was not bad, without ice and it was empty at night. But the access roads and steep ascents/descents in Gudauri itself are very treacherous. Our car sometimes could not take the next rise, or it was strongly swept away to the parked cars. It is quite risky to go to winter Gudauri by car.
We checked into an apartment near Club 2100 and slept for a couple of hours. We booked accommodation on Airbnb, because on Booking.com prices for accommodation options on New Year holidays started from 500 dollars for 6 nights. We took for three people for 300 dollars.
Due to the lack of snow, ski passes were sold only for 1 day (probably feared the closure of the slopes). To buy a ski pass you need a card, the deposit for which is 5 GEL. You can return the card to the cash desk before 16:00 and get the deposit back. Skiing for 1 day costs 50 GEL. It was possible to skate well (at least somehow, not hitting stones all the time, but every meter) only on the section from Kudebi to the lower station of Kudebi elevator (GPS: 42°29’16.5 “N 44°30’01.4 ”E), or from Kobe Pass down towards Kobe.
There are a lot of rocks on the highway, so you have to be alert to avoid them all the time. However, you can’t dodge them all, as some of them are hidden under a thin layer of snow. The slope towards Kobi, you can see some rocks on the lower left.
The highest point – Sadzele (height about 3200 m), was open only for hiking (skis, snowboards are not allowed). The mountain views are excellent, you can see Mount Kazbek as well. At the bottom right is the gondola elevator to Kobi Pass.
From Kobi Pass station you can walk up to the ridge for skiing on natural snow (freeride). The walk takes about 30 minutes.
From Kudebi everyone can go paragliding (costs about 300 GEL). Not always a good start.
Hotels and prices in Gudauri
Hotels near the elevators:
- in lower Gudauri Marco Polo Hotel Gudauri (GPS coordinates: 42°27’40.2 “N 44°29’05.6 ‘E),
- in New Gudauri – New Gudauri Rooms (GPS coordinates: 42°28’14.4 ’N 44°29’31.7 ”E).
Not a bad hotel in lower Gudauri – Gudauri Inn (GPS coordinates: 42°27’50.1 “N 44°28’38.8 ”E), there are breakfasts, there is a transfer to the elevator.
Hotel between the lower and new Gudauri (you can drive to the elevator and exit the highway to the hotel) – CLUB-2100 (GPS coordinates: 42°28’04.6 “N 44°28’52.2 ”E).
In Marco Polo there is a complex with swimming pool and sauna, it works from 08:00 to 22:00, no need to sign up in advance, entrance – 80 GEL per person without time limit. Swimsuits (swimsuit), slippers, towel should be brought with you. On the spot you can rent bathing accessories for an additional fee.
To eat in Gudauri
1) Tavern Khreki restaurant in lower Gudauri (GPS-coordinates: 42°27’35.9 “N 44°28’56.1 ”E), tasty, big portions, but long service, far away, there may be no seats. Dense dinner for two without wine is about 50-60 GEL.
2) Gagieti canteen in lower Gudauri (GPS-coordinates: 42°27’47.6 “N 44°28’50.1 ”E), good portions, crowded, constant crowd at the entrance, food is quite tasty, relatively fast service. Dense dinner for two without wine is about 50-60 GEL.
3) Snow point (GPS-coordinates: 42°27’45.8 “N 44°28’41.6 ”E) is praised for delicious food and hookahs, cozy atmosphere.
4) Drunk Cherry in New Gudauri (GPS coordinates: 42°28’12.7 “N 44°29’27.5 ”E) – delicious food, live singing, there is a dance floor, stylish interior, prices are one and a half or two times higher than in the establishments above.
Hookah – 40 GEL in the cafe of Snow point hotel.
Parking at the entrance to New Gudauri is free near the Carpe Diem hotel. Nearby there is a paid one – 5 GEL per day.
One of the days we had a trip to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), to see the Trinity Church and Rooms hotel Kazbegi.
The Georgian Military Road from Gudauri to Stepantsminda is picturesque and is a light serpentine. On the way we stopped at the Monument of Friendship of Peoples.
Then we went to the Trinity Church. We got to the section where the real climb and serpentine began, but further on our car could not climb – it just does not go, rolling down because of the ice. It was very unpleasant, because the ice started near the improvised parking lot, where two cars had already collided. We almost became the third, but the men helped to maneuver and guided the car manually, the steering wheel was not obeyed at all. We found a friend who was ready to drive our company up and back on his old Jeep Grand Cherokee. It cost 50 GEL for four people round trip.
The views from the mountain where Trinity Church stands are gorgeous, you can see Kazbek.
The wind was cold and penetrating. If you are going there in winter, dress warmly, take hats and gloves. Even if there is no snow in Stepantsminda and the sun is warm, it will blow you through at the top. Having satisfied our eyes with the surrounding beauty, we went to the fashionable Rooms Hotel Kazbegi for lunch. The place is popular and beautiful, the interior is repeatedly captured in Instragram.
The food and service were delightful. Lunch for two people is about 150 GEL. The view from the terrace is really memorable.
Initially we planned to stay in Gudauri for 5 days, but due to lack of snow the route was changed. We decided to go to the Alazani valley for a day to taste wines.
We started early in the morning and by lunchtime we were in Ruispiri, a suburb of Telavi. We stayed at Hotel & Wine Cellar ARGE (GPS coordinates: 41°56’41.4 “N 45°25’22.3 ”E). We did not see any other guests during our stay. We were welcomed very warmly and even provided with a large room. Very much liked the interiors of the hotel, especially the restaurant on the first floor with a real wood fireplace. There is its own wine cellar. In the evening we ordered a tasting of wine of own production, which is made here in kvevri (large clay vessels under the floor). There are several types of tastings, depending on the amount of wine/chachi and appetizers. We took for 15 GEL per person: 3 kinds of wine, a plate with pastilla, churchkhela, cheese and berries. Everything was very tasty! The food in the restaurant is good. View of the hotel vineyard.
Not far from the hotel there is Alaverdi monastery. The buildings are ancient, reconstruction is going on. The place is quiet and peaceful.
The next day in the morning we went to Tbilisi, at night our flight home was waiting for us.