Food in Tbilisi is another full-fledged attraction, an object of respect and even a cult. Therefore, many restaurants can be included in the must-visit points, such as the chic Georgian House, Funicular, after recent renovation, historical “windows” in the streets of the Old Town, where they sell bread, khachapuri and lobiani, bean pies. It will be delicious everywhere, regardless of the price tag.
- Shemoikhede Genatsvale
- Machakhela
- Samikitno
- Shavi Lomi
- Cafe Littera
- Mill (Cisquilli)
- Georgian House
- Funicular complex
- 144 stairs
- Old Generation
“Come in, dear”, approximately so translates the name of the restaurant ‘Shemoikhede Genatsvale’, which will please you with traditional Georgian cuisine, decent portions and moderate prices. Georgians have a custom of ordering “at the table”, when dishes stand in three rows, most of them you won’t even touch, and half of them you won’t try. This way they broadcast to the world and guests that their house is a full cup and nothing is spared for their dear guests.
You, since you don’t need to prove anything to anyone, and you don’t want to roll out like a lump after another dinner, should remember a simple scheme – order a couple of appetizers in one sitting, for example, a selection of pkhali – these are such balls of spinach, herbs, nuts and beet leaves, very healthy and appetizing, a Georgian-style vegetable salad with nut dressing, or a plate of spicy eggplant. From the main dishes choose something one, let it be chakhokhbili, or spicy chicken in satsivi sauce, or a dish with khinkali.
You can taste all kinds of khachapuri in the cafe “Machakhela”, and here “cafe in the city center” does not equal low service and high prices. On the contrary, you will be fed deliciously and inexpensively, and you will not have to go far for hearty pies. Order the famous boat – khachapuri in Adjara style, it is eaten by breaking off pieces of dough and dipping them in a hot core of cheese and egg. Or a pie according to a Mingrelian recipe, very hearty, with double cheese. The menu is extensive, but it is khachapuri that is recommended to order here.
Also from the chain of restaurants “Machakhela”, but with an assortment of food more interesting – “Samikitno”. It is worth choosing the restaurant on Meydani Square, as soon as you see the letters I Love Tbilisi, so go in. There are two floors and hundreds (not less) of seats, with fast service and the price is average in the city. Do you want to try khinkali with mushrooms, cheese or potatoes? Or to taste various meat appetizers and hot dishes inexpensively, or just to have a quick bite of soup – you are here. Add to that a stunning open veranda overlooking the Mateh Hill, and you will forgive this restaurant for possible small shortcomings.
Another iconic spot in the Chugureti neighborhood, Shavi Lomi, the Black Lion. Cozy Georgian courtyard, nice views, good service. Traditional cuisine in an unconventional version – here you will find not only kharcho and khinkali, but also unusual variations of kebabs, ajapsandal and appetizer plates, where everything is a little bit of each. Prices are above average, but the food is great!
Cafe Littera is a museum and quiet little restaurant in the courtyard of the Writers’ House. It is a historical place where Mandelstam once lived, Esenin, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov visited. The 1905 mansion, which belonged to cognac magnate Saradzhishvili, was opened in 2012 after a large-scale reconstruction, and today literary evenings, festivals and exhibitions are held here in the restored interiors. And in the courtyard of the house Littera cafe is open after 13:00, where the founder of the Georgian fusion trend in cooking Tekuna Gechechiladze reigns in the kitchen. If you plan to dine, book tables in advance! The menu includes avocado tartare, chakapuli with mussels and two dozen more dishes that do not fit into any canons of Georgian cuisine. The price tag is above average – the place obliges, however, it is not prohibited to sit for a cup of coffee in the afternoon.
For dinner with a beautiful entourage go to the “Mill”. Just tell the driver, “Cisquilli”, because you are unlikely to reach it on foot. Here is delicious, excellent service, in the evenings there is live music and a dance ensemble, and the decoration of the halls is gorgeous. Not just a restaurant – a landmark.
You can also find a restaurant where you can not only eat delicious food, but also walk around and take pictures at Tsabadze, 2. “Georgian House”, and everything is great here. It is a whole restaurant complex with a front entrance, verandas and courtyards, different rooms. Terrace overlooking the Kura embankment, beautiful twisted balconies, very Tbilisi style. Georgian cuisine and European dishes are on the menu, as well as excellent wine list. You can order a budget carafe of homemade wine, as well as the delights of elite wineries. Prices are above average, but there is a choice of quite budget positions, say, khinkali cost less than 1 GEL, and khachapuri 9.
That’s all about food, but what to drink in Tbilisi? Apart from wine and chacha, you should definitely try Georgian lemonades, they are beyond praise. The usual bottled ones are sold on every corner, but if you want something special, look for “Lagidze Waters”. These are cult drinks, with natural syrups and very unusual flavors, creamy and chocolate, for example. They are not sold everywhere, but you will find a good selection in the specialty cafe on the territory of the Cathedral and in one of the restaurants of the Funicular complex. I recommend it!
In addition to wine and sodas, Georgians drink a lot of coffee. And they know how to brew it. For quality coffee you can walk to the cafe “144 stairs” – they say that’s how many steps you will have to climb on your way to a cup of the cherished drink.
Or in Old Generation. Here in a small bar you will be treated with wine from local vineyards, excellent coffee and sweets. Excellent service and very friendly, cordial hosts.
